While I was gone

Remember these?  I was happy to come back to a pile of ripe ones.  I somehow managed to get a better harvest indoors than outdoors, but I am really just happy for a harvest at all.  My sturdy cherry tomato plants outside even surprised me with a last harvest of their own, frost and all.

In the post

For as long as I can remember I have received and sent postcards abroad and locally.  In the past 7 years, I have made it somewhat of a tradition to write a postcard in poem format.  I love sitting at a cafe trying to decipher what to rhyme with mosque, croissant or vino.  It has become a bit of a game for me.  This past trip to Sweden I came very close to not sending postcards.  Gasp!  Luckily, for all you recipients, I stumbled across the most absolutely adorable stamps I had ever seen and then I was determined.  In hindsight, I am very happy that I did not break with tradition.  Here is what I wrote....

Hej hej from Sweden, 

On the island of Uto through mossy pine forests we hike,

Along pastoral fields to white sandy beaches we bike.

After 2 lovely days and plenty of time to relax,

It's back to civilization and delicious gravlax.

At the conditori we feast on cinnamon buns with tea and milk,

Later it's off to admire 18th century weaving in silk. 

Stockholm city skyline at sunset is especially pretty by ferry,

There's so much to see; we mustn't tarry.

At the Nordic Museum, Scandinavian crafts we see,

Then on to the Vasa ship that capsized at sea.

Luckily the hotel we slept on called the Red Boat,

Was much better engineered to stay afloat!

Stockholm Style

When it comes to style, Swedish designers just get it.  The clean lines, thoughtful materials and neutral palette with an unexpected twist.  Light.  Open. Unassuming. And Inviting.   Take what you might see at a store like Ikea and amplify it a million times. The result is achingly modern and classic, functional yet trendy, homey but cool.   Hands down, Stockholm is a treasure trove of inspiration for interior design and textile advocates.     Each store, clothing and interior, so well curated in this modern Scandinavian aesthetic.  So consistent, yet unique.  Right now, I am loving white ceramics, graphic prints, aged birch, succulents and pops of color. 

Photo Credits: This is just a small sampling of the stores I visited, but there were just too many.  I could have filled pages, books really.

  From top to bottom, left to right.  Room arrangements at Norrgavel.  Pillow from SvensktTenn; print by legendary textile artist Josef Frank and absolutely the most inspirational showroom I have ever visited.  Fabric by TioGruppen.  Ceramic mugs at Konsthantverkarna made by Jonas Lindholm.  Feather Necklace by DesignTorget.  Flower pot decals also at DesignTorget. Cutout baskets from Asplund.

Culinary Adventures

 I don't think I have ever visited a country where I ate so consistently well.  We didn't stumble on a single terrible meal and being food lover's this was a good thing.  Swedish fair is full of fresh fish, hearty servings, and delectable deserts.  What's not to love?

 From top to bottom, left to right.  Apple custard at Conditori Sturekatten. Ginger cake with lingonberries and homemade whip cream at Skansen.  Nordic blackened salmon on a sea of whipped potatoes at Vardshus on Uto.  Lamb and root veggies at Pelikan. Smor means butter in Swedish. What a lovely touch at Pelikan. True Swedish meatballs served with whipped potatoes, lingonberries and sweet pickled cucumbers at Bakfickan.  Seafood soup at Lisa Elmqvist. Fresh filet of sole with a compote of beets at Lisa Elmqvist. Braised leg of lamb at Bistro Sud.  Open faced herring sandwich at Nystrekt Stromming (newly fried herring).  Cardamon and cinnamon spiced buns at Cafe Saturnus.  An afternoon break with pastry sweets and samovar at Sundbergs Konditori.

Murphy's Law

Back in Stockholm and eager to get moving, Melisa and I decided to explore the city via Stockholm City Bikes.  Multiple bike stands are located throughout the city and with a City Bike card pass you can take and return a bike to any stand as many times as you would like throughout the day.  Minneapolis has a similar program called Nice Ride and I have been eager to test out the idea of public bike sharing since our own Nice Rides were installed last year.  There, in Stockholm, I finally had my chance.  Our first morning we had no problem finding the bike stand closest to our hostel.  Check! It was off to the Modern Art Museum.  Before leaving we double check the map for the closest bike stand to our destination.  It wasn't close.  We would have to walk a little. So we did.  Upon arrival at the museum what do we see?  A Stockholm City Bike stand right in front of our destination. No matter, we're here.  After entering the museum, we discover that the exhibit we wanted to see just ended. Darn!  Nothing to see here.  It's off to the Nordic Museum.  It had started to drizzle.  Shall we take the ferry instead?  No.  We can bike, a little drizzle won't hurt.  First let's check the map.  There is only one bike stand on Djurgården. I think I can find it.  15 minutes later, we arrive.  Shoot, the rack is full.  What do we do with our bikes?  Ok, where is the closest bike stand.  It is right across the bridge.  The rain has gotten stronger. Across the bridge we go.  Where is this bike stand?  It has to be here.  Keep riding.  Turn around.  Turn back around.  Ok, it's not here.  I'm soaked.  There has to be another one.  Ride up this street.  I know! There is one here.  There it is.  2 spots left. Phew!  Now what?  It is still raining.  Let's go to a cafe.  Ohh look, across the square, Piccolo, that must be a cafe.  Let's have some tea, dry off, no?  Ok.  Piccolo is a dry cleaner!  Who names a dry cleaner Piccolo?  Darn!  How about we huddle under this awning until the rain lets up?  Ok.  I'm soaked.  Me too.  Let's just walk to the damn museum.  I want to see some damn Nordic crafts.  Ok.   Later, after the museum with lifted spirits...  I am so glad to be dry.  I'm famished.  Me too.  Let's go to Soldermalm for dinner.  Ok.  Shall we bike?  Yeah, let's bike, that bike stand was full this morning.  Let's go.  Upon arrival, there are no bikes left. Really??  Murphy's law states "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong"


Luckily, this law only applied to our first miserable morning.  The next 2 days were perfect via bike.  Once we got the hang of it, Stockholm proved to be a very friendly city to bike.

Walk with caution.  Bikers approach from all angles.

 Isn't this nice? A special bike path off the road and only for bikers . I was green with jealousy.

 Check out this street!  I'm loving the giant bicycle symbol smack dab in the middle of the street.  Another pang of jealousy hits.  I distinctly remember wondering why we didn't have something like this in Minneapolis.

It's like Minneapolis was channeling my Swedish wishes.  Check out our new bike boulevard on Bryant Avenue.  This all went down during my week off.  Have you seen it? 

Utö

A half hour train ride on the local Pendeltag, followed by a 15 minute bus ride, and a mere 45 minute journey by ferry is just the right amount of time needed to find yourself lovingly nestled on the dreamy island of Utö.  Being post summer, we were the only guests at the only youth hostel.  Although seemingly desolate, it was oddly relaxing and just what I needed to rejuvenate.  The first afternoon we spent wandering the north side of the island, through the forests and along the craggy beaches.   On the second day, I awoke to rain and a mist of clouds shrouding the sky.  Contentedly, I snuggled back into the down comforter and dozed to the patter of raindrops.  Later, once the weather decided to cooperate, we hopped onto a few bikes and cruised the entire length of the island, on the only dirt road. Smaller trails drew us deep into the pine and fern. Grassy, muddy and then sandy.  Taking a break at this lovely white sand cove of a beach, we diverged paths to explore in solitude. Zoning out to the melody of crashing waves, I was mesmerized by the seaweed pulling in and out by the tug of the Baltic.  I was conscious of my breath, breathing deep, filling my lungs with the scent of sea, pine and sweet moss.

My view from the hostel.  Being the only guests, gave us the best room in the house. 

There is something about the light on this island.  It softly creeps into the trees illuminating the spongy moss floor.

Weaving at Sidenväveri

A few months ago, shortly after booking my trip to Sweden, I began combing my guidebook and then the web for anything to do with Scandinavian weaving in Stockholm.  All of my favorite weaving books (and many of my knitting books), both old and new,  are from Swedish authors translated into English.  For some indescribable reason I assumed that everyone in Sweden was an avid weaver and knitter.  I was looking forward to perusing yarn and weaving stores, purchasing those, hard to get your hands on, Swedish yarns that are always cited in my books yet impossible to find.   After all learning to knit is a course requirement in public school.  Despite my best efforts I found not one fiber store in all of Stockholm.  I didn't even casually pass one on the street.  I did, however,  find one little gem of a place, tucked away on a sleepy street in Soldermalm. Sidenväveri Museum.  A 170 year old silk mill, now museum, the last remaining of its kind in Stockholm.  Inside, the tour is mostly self guided.  On the main level the looms and warping, and winding equipment is exactly where it may have been 100 years ago.  An expert weaver takes a break from her book to demonstrate on one of the looms.

This loom is from the early 1800's.  It takes about 3-4 weeks to warp with threadlike silk at 160 ends per inch.  The cord in the middle is an automatic shuttle enabling a weaver to weave 10x faster than hand throwing. 

Beside and above the loom is the punchcard that tells the loom which threads to raise in order to create the pattern.  That huge stack of cardboard is what is required to create 1 full repeat, in this case about 10 inches.

 The 3 crown pattern.  A damask weave still used by the royal family.  I find out that the Sidenväveri not only acts as a museum but also occasionally takes on custom orders.  This piece is being woven for upholstery.  The client had to first ask special permission from the royal family before commissioning this piece from the museum.  Later, as I walk near the royal palace, I easily spot 3 crowns adorning the buildings.  

In the upstairs loft of the museum, an archive of drawings and samples are stored in large climate controlled drawers.  The detail is exquisite. I can't imagine creating something this perfect without the aid of a computer.  

 Back downstairs, my expert weaver guide shows me what she works on when the museum is commissionless.  Ivory silk in the warp and horsehair in the weft, this is exactly what I love about the Swedish design aesthetic.  The contrast of the rough hair works nicely with the luster of the silk.  The face isn't smooth, as it is in the damask samples, but variegated and almost straw like.  The frayed edges are a lovely touch. 

The back, or the front depending on how you look at it.